Dealu Mare

In short: Dealu Mare is Romania’s most important red wine region — a 7,000-hectare arc of south-facing sub-Carpathian slopes between 200 and 600 m altitude, about 1h30 northeast of Bucharest. The main varieties are Fetească Neagră (the indigenous red grape that produces Romania’s most distinctive wines), Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir. Wine tourism infrastructure has improved significantly since 2015 but remains modest compared to Burgundy or Tuscany — which keeps it authentic and affordable.

The wines: what’s actually good

Romanian wine has a reputation problem in Western markets — largely historical, from the communist era’s export-priority bulk production. Dealu Mare’s serious producers have been working against this for 30 years, and the best bottles genuinely stand comparison with European wines at the same price point (100–200 RON, 20–40 EUR).

Fetească Neagră (Black Maiden in Romanian) is the variety worth seeking out — a high-tannin, dark-fruit grape that produces something between a Merlot and a Syrah when done well. Crama Tohani’s and Davino’s versions are the reference examples.

Cabernet Sauvignon: reliable across the region. Look for small-producer wines rather than the industrial coops.

Pinot Noir: the sub-Carpathian climate produces thinner, more acidic Pinots than expected — interesting rather than impressive.

White wines: Dealu Mare is primarily red wine country. For whites, look to Moldova (northeast Romania) or Cotnari.

Key wineries and where to visit

Crama Tohani (Tohani village): the most visited winery in the region — good infrastructure, English-speaking staff, 45 RON tasting of 5 wines. The Fetească Neagră Tohani selection is a reliable benchmark.

Davino (Urlați area): one of the prestige producers; tours by appointment, 60–80 RON. Their Domeniu Coroanei Dealu Mare reds are among the best in Romania.

Licorna Winehouse (Urlați): newer winery with a modern tasting room and a Fetească Neagră that has won international recognition. 50 RON for a guided tasting.

Cramele Budureasca (Pietroasele): larger producer with extensive tourist facilities — restaurant, accommodation, vineyard walks. More corporate than Davino or Licorna but very accessible.

Cotnari is not Dealu Mare but worth noting as context: Romania’s famous semi-sweet white wine comes from a different, northeastern region.

Getting to Dealu Mare from Bucharest

By car: the most practical option. Take the A3 motorway northeast toward Ploiești, then the national roads toward Urlați or Ceptura. 1h30–2h depending on destination within the region. The sub-Carpathian roads are pleasant for driving.

By organised wine tour: several Bucharest operators offer half-day and full-day wine tours to Dealu Mare with transport and tasting. The Village Museum and wine tasting tour combines city sightseeing with a wine session. For dedicated wine content, the Romanian wine tasting tour from Bucharest focuses on cellar visits and structured tasting.

In Bucharest itself, several wine bars offer Dealu Mare introductions without the drive: the Romanian wine tasting at Corks wine bar is a good starting point.

Romanian wine history: why it was underrated for so long

Romania has been producing wine since before the Roman conquest of Dacia (106 AD) — the Greeks established vineyards on the Black Sea coast in the 7th century BC. The modern quality gap has specific historical causes:

During the communist period (1948–1989), Romanian wine was managed as an export commodity. The goal was volume and hard currency, not quality. Mass-production cooperatives replaced artisan estates; bulk Merlot and Cabernet were shipped to West Germany and the Soviet bloc with no concern for quality differentiation. The reputation built during this period was a bulk-wine reputation — cheap, reliable volume.

The transition to private ownership after 1989 was slow. Small private plots were returned to families who often had no viticultural knowledge; cooperatives were dismantled. The 1990s were a quality trough. Investment in proper winemaking began in earnest around 2000–2010, when international consultants (primarily French and Italian) worked with Romanian producers to understand what the terroir could deliver.

What they found: the Dealu Mare sub-Carpathian slopes produce conditions similar to southern Burgundy in some respects — altitude moderation of summer heat, complex soils with limestone and clay, sufficient rainfall. The indigenous Fetească Neagră grape turned out to produce distinctive, age-worthy red wines that couldn’t be directly compared to any Western European variety.

The current generation of Dealu Mare producers — Davino, Serve, Licorna, Tohani — is making wines that score consistently in the 90-point range in international competitions. The main constraint on international recognition is distribution: Romanian wine is barely present in UK or US wine shops.

The geography of Dealu Mare

“Dealu Mare” means “Big Hill” in Romanian — a description of the sub-Carpathian ridge rather than a specific administrative unit. The wine region runs roughly north-south between Cricov and Buzău rivers, covering parts of Prahova and Buzău counties.

The best vineyards are on south-facing slopes between 200 and 600 metres altitude. This elevation matters: at 200 m, August temperatures can reach 38°C (too hot for Pinot Noir, acceptable for Fetească Neagră); at 600 m, the same varieties ripen 2–3 weeks later with more retained acidity.

The soil composition varies: chalk and clay in the lower elevations (Ceptura, Urlați); sandier soils with limestone at higher sites (Pietroasele). Davino and Tohani’s best plots are in the 400–550 m range with limestone content — this is where Fetească Neagră shows the most character.

The harvest season (September–October)

September–October is the optimal time to visit Dealu Mare: temperatures are mild (20–25°C), the vines are in full colour, and most wineries offer harvest experiences — grape picking, crush participation, must tasting. Cramele Budureasca and Crama Tohani both organise harvest events that can be booked from Bucharest.

The Urlați wine festival (typically mid-September) is a town square event with regional producers selling direct — modest but genuine.

Pietroasele and the wider sub-Carpathian area

Beyond the wineries, the sub-Carpathian landscape itself is pleasant — rolling hills at 200–600m, small Orthodox monasteries, traditional villages with little tourist infrastructure. The Pietroasele area has the famous Pietroasele archaeological site (Visigoth gold treasury, now in the National History Museum in Bucharest), which adds a historical layer to a wine tour.

For the food pairing context, see our Romanian wine guide and the traditional Romanian dishes guide.

Buying Romanian wine to take home

Dealu Mare wines are widely available in Bucharest wine shops and increasingly in international markets, but the best selection and the best prices are at the wineries themselves:

Crama Tohani shop: the full range including limited releases not available elsewhere; 50–200 RON per bottle depending on tier.

Davino at the estate: premium range from 120–400 RON; their “Purpura Valahica” is the flagship red (Fetească Neagră blend, 180 RON at cellar door, 250+ RON in Bucharest shops).

In Bucharest: the best curated Romanian wine shops are:

• Crama Veche (Strada Franceza, Old Town): good selection, knowledgeable staff.
• Corks Wine Bar & Shop (Piața Amzei): Romanian-focused selection with tasting notes.
• Carrefour hypermarkets: cheaper but limited to the main brands.

Carrying wine home: most Eastern European wines travel well as hold luggage (wrap in clothes or buy wine bags at the airport). Romanian wine is not yet well-distributed in Western Europe, so buying at source is genuinely worth it.

Pairing Dealu Mare with other nearby stops

The sub-Carpathian area northeast of Bucharest has more than wine:

Slănic Salt Mine (60 km from Urlați): an underground salt cavern used as a respiratory spa — 60 m high salt halls, a basketball court, an underground tennis court. Entry 35 RON. Genuinely unusual and easy to combine with a winery visit.

Câmpina (20 km northwest of the wine region): the town has the Iulia Hasdeu Castle (a 19th-century eccentric Gothic villa built by a grieving father for his deceased daughter), which is worth 45 minutes.

Ploiești (the regional city, 30–40 km west of Urlați): the petroleum industry capital, with an excellent Oil Museum (Muzeul Petrolului) if you’re interested in the history of oil drilling — Romania was one of the world’s first oil producers (1850s). Entry 20 RON.

Where to eat in the Dealu Mare area

Restaurant infrastructure is sparse outside the winery restaurants themselves:

• La Conac (Ceptura): a winery-adjacent restaurant with regional cooking — excellent mici and sarmale, house wine from 40 RON/bottle.
• Cramele Budureasca restaurant: full menu, booking recommended on weekends, 60–100 RON per main.
• Village pensiuni in Urlați and Tohani: local guesthouses serve home-cooked lunch for 40–60 RON by reservation.

Frequently asked questions about Dealu Mare

What wine is Dealu Mare most famous for?

Fetească Neagră — an indigenous Romanian red grape producing full-bodied, tannic wines with dark fruit. Dealu Mare’s south-facing slopes at altitude produce the best examples in the country. Look for Davino, Crama Tohani and Licorna as reference producers.

Can I visit Dealu Mare as a day trip from Bucharest?

Yes — 1h30–2h each way by car, with 4–6 hours for 2–3 winery visits. Most winery tours require advance booking; call or email the day before. Wine tours from Bucharest handle all logistics including transport.

Is there accommodation in Dealu Mare?

Yes — pensiuni (guesthouses) in Urlați, Ceptura and Pietroasele, typically 200–350 RON/night double. Cramele Budureasca also has accommodation (from 400 RON/night). Staying overnight allows an evening wine dinner and morning vineyard walk.

What’s the difference between Dealu Mare and other Romanian wine regions?

Dealu Mare is the premier red wine area — Fetească Neagră and Cabernet are the specialities. Cotnari (northeast) is famous for sweet white wine. Murfatlar (Black Sea coast) produces whites and light reds. Jidvei (Transylvania) is the major white wine region. Romanian wine tourism is mostly based in Dealu Mare and Murfatlar.

When is the Urlați wine festival?

Typically mid-September. Local producers sell direct, folk music performances, cooking demonstrations. It’s a community event rather than a commercial festival — modestly sized but authentic. Check the Urlați tourism pages or the Romanian Wine Promotion Association for exact dates each year.